A FACE FULL OF MOSQUITOS, the Pantanal is the largest floodplain on Earth covering approximately 230,000 km2 on the Brazilian side, it also extends into Bolivia and the Grande Chaco in Paraguay. It has many rivers and a number of freshwater and saltwater lagoons. It is also a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site.

The Transpantaneira road starts in Pocone and ends 100km away at Porto Jofre. We are staying at the Jaguar Lodge about one hour from where the road ends (we are the only people staying there). In the 100km there are around 120 wooden bridges. We flew into Cuiaba and were collected early in the morning ready for our drive to the lodge. After a short break for lunch we arrived around 6pm.

Enroute we see an extraordinary number of birds and animals. At one point heading towards us are around two hundred cows. Brahma cows. The pick up truck we are traveling in stops. I have made a request that I would like to photograph any “cowboys” that we might come across. We see three, two leaders and a man coming up the rear. My first impression is of the wonderful bridles and saddles on their horses. The man at the rear is cracking a very long whip which in turn moves the cattle along. I said to Guy that I would like to get out and photograph them. He in turn follows me. Cameras poised (first I asked one of them if a “foto” was ok and he smiled) just as I got the camera ready, I looked at Guy and saw that he had a “face full of mosquitoes”. Never have I seen such aggressive mosquitoes in my life. They were all over both of us, biting and buzzing while we are trying to photograph the scene in front of us. Guy bravely made an eight minute film but I jumped back in the truck as soon as I had taken a few pictures.

In spite of covering ourselves with Deet each day, we have been very aware that the personality of the insects in the Pantanal are quite unlike any other. We are after all in the “jungle” and this is their territory. Insects, of every shape and size surround us. The temperature has been up to 38 degrees centigrade daily and yesterday we spent six hours in a boat on the river without much protection from the sun. We came here with the hope of seeing a jaguar. There are many here but of course they are not going to be seen on demand. We go out in the truck at night looking for them and also in the boat to see if they are along the riverbank in the heat of the day. THEN on our last day our guide says “Jaguar” and there on the riverbank is one lying under the branches of a tree, almost hidden in the grass. As we drift by, there’s two! Stunningly beautiful, graceful and walking along the bank are a male and female. They are shy and move into the long grass when they see us. We snap photos as fast as we can as they are gone in a flash. Our guides are sure that they will stay in the area so we move away for about fifteen minutes. We return to find them both lying fully exposed to us by the water’s edge. We move in a bit closer and tie the boat to a tree and watch wide eyed as they lie close to each other performing cleaning duties male to female and relaxing in siesta mode. For Guy and I it was the thrill of a lifetime. These wonderful creatures are no longer found in North America since the 1900’s and are now only found in Central and South America (see blog photos). We watch them for a full ten minutes and then WE make the decision to leave not them. We were also lucky enough to see two ocelots on separate occasions which although not quite the same as the big cats, were nevertheless a big thrill.
The numerous animals, butterflies, snakes, mammals and birds around are wonderful. It is great to see the wonders of nature and to be thankful that as the fireflies glow, the world of pesticides has not invaded this unique place….