THE ONLY WAY TO GO IS NORTH…we leave Ushuaia, my favourite place in Patagonia, the end of the world, and head to Buenos Aires for the night. We have been very lucky with our flights so far apart from the one to Ushuaia which was pretty bumpy and every time the plane rolled the woman sitting next to me started praying and turning the pages of her magazine faster and faster without so much as a glance at the pictures or editorial. Flying for me has always been something I have enjoyed and my adrenaline starts to flow the minute we arrive at an airport. The flight to Buenos Aires started pretty well. It is interesting that most of the flights have been full, even with the economic situation the way it is, the airlines have managed to work out how to keep the planes full. About half way through the three hour flight there was the smell of “sick” and for the remainder of the flight the lady behind us had a dreadful journey which of course impacted on us. She had kindly retrieved some cards which had fallen down her side whilst Guy and I were playing earlier and was a smiley happy lady in her mid thirties with a good looking husband, a son of about three and a baby daughter of around six months. The drama that unfolded involved three flight attendants, a doctor and a nurse. The husband was incredible. He took control of the situation in a way that really only the “modern” husband/father can. Once his wife appeared to be comfortable (ie fast asleep) he looked after those two children as if he did so every day (maybe he does). The point being that the father of today is so involved in the care of their children that this poor lady was able to relax knowing that she did not have to be concerned or worried about the welfare of her children. How times have changed.

We are now in El Bordo del Las Lanzas. This is an estancia about forty five minutes from Salta in the north of Argentina. The house was built in 1609 and the interior resembles many houses of that period in Britain. Beams abound. The outside however is very Spanish and the tiled roof, courtyards full of flowers and greenery and wide verandas are charming. The house is full of family photos, books, paintings, beautiful furniture, a library, ornate plates, religious ornaments, pottery, silver and many other artefacts, including animal skins, saddles and bridles, an antique gun collection and a lot more. The family (apart from the father who died) convene here every year for Christmas. There are ten married children ( I wonder how much of a role the father played with their upbringing !) plus twenty three grandchildren. A wealthy family who obviously have a number of staff who run the house (the mother has now moved to Salta and the children are scattered around the globe) and have “paying guests” like us who come and enjoy the tranquility of the place rather than staying in a hotel. “Please use the house as if it is your home” Daniel the manager says when we arrive. He also wants to know when we would like to go for a ride and whether we would like a hour or two hours or more. We meet up with the only other couple staying here. Frederik and Sasha are a delightful couple. Both in their early thirties, they live in London, she is from California and he is from Denmark. We leave with two of the “Gauchos” and are later joined by a third. Our horses which are really no more than ponies are called “step horses” and that is exactly how they move, the front legs are very active and they lift them higher than your average horse. This is the second time I have ridden this year, the first being in New Zealand. Riding is a side of Guy that is new to me. He looks and acts so proficient on horseback that I wonder how it comes so naturally to him. I, on the other hand was brought up with ponies of many shapes and temperaments and worked with thoroughbreds for years but still feel on edge for the first half an hour at least. My daughter, Clara would be very proud of me if she were here as she knows that for many years her old pony, Katie, was the only animal that I trusted enough to ride. We rode through streams, fields and tracks, sugar cane and beans and the beauty of the place is incredible.

Afternoon tea was served when we returned. Discussions with Frederik and Sasha started then and continued through dinner and breakfast. Many, many topics were covered ,Guy and F both being economists had much to say and it was a truly memorable time with them. What an articulate and charming couple, professionals enjoying their lives and careers.

We leave here on Tuesday and will be on our own here until then (apart from the staff who are busy preparing three huge meals a day for us). We plan to go riding tomorrow, this time to see the caimans, a three hour ride this time. The saddles are comfortable and the horses well behaved, the temperature is low seventies and if the rain holds off it will be “purrfic”!