500 feet thick at the thin edge of the wedge…..3,000 feet thick at the other end of the wedge. [NOTE: Our 80 foot boat is in the lower left corner.] Miles long, 1-1/2 miles wide….. And not the biggest one of the 350 glaciers living in the park…. Perito Moreno is stunning as it is also serving as one of the “miner’s canaries” for global climate change. A central part of the national park for more than 100 years it has been extensively studied, measured, cross sectioned, photographed, and mapped for those 100 years. As such, it provides a good baseline, albeit a big baseline, for the changes occurring in the world’s temperatures, precipitation, and seasonal changes. People, the flat-earth society members, can deny climate change is occurring. We need not debate it to consider that all of the measures proposed to address it should be done anyway, whether climate change is occurring or not. I have seen no measure proposed that doesn’t stand on its own merits. That said, addressing climate change can be seen as an insurance policy–a relatively small payment today to avoid the cost of calamity later. Usually that calamity never occurs, like say the highly unlikely event that your house burns down, but we still happily buy fire insurance. So, Moreno glacier is the only of Argentina’s hundreds of glaciers that is not getting smaller. There is a lot of debate as to why. But what about the hundreds of others that are shrinking? Do we ignore that fact? Is it coincidence or does it correlate with the other changes occurring around the world that individually and collectively suggest our global house is on fire…. And we do not have another house to go to…. We saw Moreno in two seasons in 2 hours: Fall and Winter. Blowing freezing rain or Autumnal sun and long shadows….. Which would you prefer?

Location, location, location…. The frontier town of El Chalten….. at the narrow end of the funnel of the canyon of the Rio Fitzroy as it drains the Fitzroy mountain region. Literally the end of a hundreds-of-miles-long road (our ride from the airport was 3 hours across open, barren, high plains). So, blasted by the winds as they come down the canyon…. Small town, trying to be big….. We stayed at a small hotel right about in the center of this photo.

Sun Arise…. And fill all the holes around….. And bring back the warmth to the ground. First rays appeared 1 1/2 hours before the sun made it over the ridge. Easter Sunday and we were up before the sun, on the road to El Calafate….. El Chalten is a small frontier town of about 1,000 at the toe of the canyon where the famous Cerro Torre and Fitzroy peaks are with glaciers all around. Had a fabulous hike into true vast wilderness (which by US standards means “roadless”) to these views.

300 feet straight down into a shroud of mists…… The Devil’s Nose. With apologies to Bunny, it is awesome! Click on the picture—it is a video. The numbers: one of about 170 falls, depending on how you want to count them. Bigger, higher, more thunderous than Niagara, surrounded by about 500,000 acres of national parks which in turn are surrounded by thousands more acres of local parks put into place as a buffer for the national parks. Some can only be approached from the Brazil side where we stayed at a fabulous hotel, the only hotel located within the park (about 6 miles inside) and with views of the falls from the hotel. And the sound of the falls to sleep by… The biggest, highest, and widest falls can only be approached from the Argentine side. It takes about an hour to make the loop but, Wow, what beauty, power, noise…. Unlike a “small” waterfall which develops a pattern of sound–beautiful noise– of surges, spurts, relatively high-pitched crashes, and roars, these falls are so large that the sound is just one continuous thunder. One continuous low frequency thunder. That said, it is not really a roar in the sense of, say, a lion’s roar or a train’s roar that has a rising beginning, peak, and falling off. You can tell, you can feel, that this roar, this rumble, has no beginning and no end. The undiminished, unending, power is unmistakably going right into your bones.